2 February 2011

Postcard from Naarden

In fairness, Holland is not a scenic place, writes Brian Byrne. Driving in the hinterland of Amsterdam is a flat experience, literally and emotionally. Especially in the middle of winter, when the wind coming in from the North Sea doesn't encourage getting out of the car for long.

But just as you can do anywhere, it is possible to stumble on a little gem. Like the tiny town of Naarden, a beautifully maintained relic of the 17th century.

It is surrounded by water. Most places in this part of Holland are, given that there are probably more canals than in Venice, part of an extensive system to keep the land from being recovered by the sea. However, Naarden is also a uniquely preserved star fort, one no longer used for military purposes but which gives the place a character unlike any town of its size I have been.

Entrance and exit are across bridges, so there is a sense of enclosure when you arrive. And it wouldn't take long to drive through, so it is worthwhile taking the first free parking space you can find.

Shops are small, very high quality, and often show a fine level of artistry in their window dressing. The main street also features one of Holland's oldest churches, the Great Church, well-known for the classical music performances in its wonderful acoustics. There's also a fine Town Hall dating to 1601.

But the fascinating part is the fortifications, which incorporate an extraordinary complex of military buildings, built on by grass-covered earth which today provide high level parklands for walking and games, as well as views back out towards the sea at one side. Demilitarised in the 1920s, most of the buildings have been restored and converted to various community uses.

These include Holland's Fort Museum, restaurants, offices, design studios and shops. So, if the wind militates against spending too much time on top, a retreat can be made underground.

In our case, time was far too short to get to see all that was available in a place where a very pleasant day could easily be spent, preferably in a balmier time of the year. But it is bookmarked for a future visit.