Port Douglas, just over an hour's drive on Captain Cook Highway north of Cairns, in Queensland, Australia, has been transformed from a sleepy fishing village into a top international holiday resort in recent years, writes Trish Whelan.
The town, founded in 1877 as a mining town after gold was found there, is named after a former Premier of Queensland, John Douglas. While still small, its population can double with the influx of tourists during the peak May-September tourism season.
It was around 1980 that the Port began to develop as a tourist destination. It now attracts visitors from all over the world looking for a holiday with a difference where they can enjoy the clear blue waters of the Coral Sea and the Great Barrier Reef, against the rainforest. All these attractions help make the area one of the most scenic and sought-after destinations in the whole of Australia.
Visitors also appreciate the tropical climate that Port Douglas enjoys. Warm summers and warm winters, but with heavy rainfall usually occurring from January through March. November to April — summer and early autumn seasons — are dominated by a high pressure system in the Tasman Sea and winds from the east, while the dry season lasts from May to October and is the coolest time in the tropics. Rainfall is low at this time.
On arrival, one thing you notice quickly is how clouds always seem to hang around the mountain tops, made from warm moist air over the sea being forced up over the mountains where it cools, condenses and forms these clouds.
The Inlet of Port Douglas is lined by dark green mangroves and is a sanctuary for numerous fish and crustaceans and the odd croc. Many migratory birds feed and roost here, coming from as far north as Siberia so it's a bird watchers paradise. I must admit to having further investigated when I noticed a 'Port Douglas Crocs' sign along a small road out from the town thinking I'd come across a crocodile farm. But no, the 'Crocs' turned out to be the local football team.
But walk through the town, which is based on a grid, and you'll love the wooden and covered sidewalks (providing shelter from both sun and rain) where you can browse from a choice of boutique clothes and jewellery shops, art galleries, gourmet restaurants and sidewalk cafes, not to mention the numerous travel, sports and car hire shops all competing to help you enjoy your stay. All the streets are tree-lined, and are ablaze with bright flowers and shrubs.
The town's main attraction, though, is its Four Mile Beach which offers one of the most scenic strolls imaginable with the calm sea, all those palm trees and gentle ocean breezes. It's a good idea to hire some bicycles and cycle along the length of the beach on the hard sand. The town's portion of the beach is patrolled by lifeguards. Here big signs warn to only swim between the red and yellow flags which mark the Stinger Net Enclosure in order to stay safe from the jellyfish as a sting from these dangerous marine pests can turn your holiday into a nightmare. The worst offenders are the Chironex Box Jellyfish and Irukandji which are classified as dangerous. Signs also provide emergency hospital telephone numbers in case the worst happens and you need immediate medical attention. I guess there are a few casualties from time to time. Safer to swim in the hotel's pool!
There are so many other things to enjoy like a climb up the gentle slope of Flagstaff Hill, which overlooks the Port as it is the best place to see the fantastic views of the town and the long curve of the beach and far off hills.
For shoppers, you can bag yourself a Crocodile Dundee type Aussie hat in Hats On Macrossan Street, or shop 'til you drop in the superb Marina Mirage Arcade mall just a short walk from the town, with its stylish shopping and great architectural features. Or perhaps just sit and sip a cocktail, or local beer, on the deck outside watching the white cruisers and yachts as they bob up and down right beside you with the intriguing mangroves close by. All the time keeping an eye out for the old croc who locals say lives there.
It's from here you catch the daily boat trips out to the Great Barrier Reef, so vast that it can be seen from the moon. It is also the largest life form on earth. We braved a trip in the Aristocat catamaran to the GBR in strong winds and swam the 100 feet or so to the edge of the reefs as boats dock that far away from the closest edge of a reef for environmental reasons. Not an easy task in big winds as I'm not a strong swimmer but there was plenty of professional help to assist and the unique experience of seeing the wonders of the reef through my goggles and all those myriads of colourful fish made it one of the best adventures of a lifetime. Landlubbers can opt to discover these wonders in a glass bottom boat, and stay dry. The trip out to the Great Barrier Reef through the rough shipping lanes takes from 1-2 hours depending on what boat you choose. It was off the Batt Reef, close to Port Douglas, that Crocodile Hunter and entertainer Steve Irwin died from a stingray barb when filming a TV documentary.
Back on dry land, don't miss the Sunday market held in Market Park, beside Anzac Park, which has been on the go for 20 years providing locally made hand crafted goods — arts and crafts, glassware, pottery, jewellery, tropical clothing, fruit and vegetables and genuine Australian souvenirs to take home. And do visit the Courthouse Museum which promotes the history of the area. The local authority has also been busy with their informative and colourful signs on the local environment which are located all over the town.
Cheerful bars and nice restaurants abound. Just don't be surprised when your very friendly barman or waitress greets you with an Irish accent as the town is a favourite with Irish backpackers working their way around Australia.
If you want to wander further from the Port, you can visit the Daintree wet tropical rainforest which boasts some of the rarest and ancient plants on earth. They, like the GBR are listed as a World Heritage Area and so are protected forever. The more adventurous can go white water rafting on the Tully River; or even go ballooning in absolute silence over the outback.
Thousands of visitors are expected to converge on Port Douglas next near (2012) as it will be the pole position for a total solar eclipse on 14 November. A special marathon is being organised to coincide with the event with over 2,000 competitors setting off as the first rays of the sun re-emerge from behind the moon. So it may well be a very special occasion to visit.
For our week in Port Douglas we stayed in the superb Mantra Portsea Hotel on Davidson Street which is really a wide road flanked with big trees and other smart hotels. We enjoyed a large bedroom with ensuite, balcony and small kitchen, all the time with the soothing background sound of gently running water throughout the hotel due to its three swimming pools, waterslide and waterfalls, all linked to a central lagoon. The hotel also had its own short walkway down to the beach.
A word of warning. If you have booked a return trip by shuttle bus back to Cairns airport, do ring the company the day before your flight to confirm that they will pick you up at your hotel in good time for your flight.