When the Basque authorities in Bilbao did a deal with the Guggenheim Foundation in 1992 to build a version of their Museum in the northern Spanish city, they pulled a master stroke, writes Brian Byrne.
With Frank Gehry as the architect — he of the landmark building Conference Centre Dublin — it opened in 1997, the total cost, plus acquisition fees and management costs to the Foundation, paid for the the Basque authorities. Within two years, the extra tourist business brought in by the Museum in the city had generated more taxes for the city than the cost of the building.
It has become iconic, symbolic now globally for the city of Bilbao, which has been a commercial hub of northern Spain since the 14th century. Its prosperity has come from the mining of iron ore in the region and its export to the rest of Spain and other countries. There's a maritime tradition which has extended to most parts of the globe, and a growth in industry that made it a powerhouse in Spain, with a hiccup when the Spanish Civil War began there in 1936. That growth stopped in the 1980s, with the shift of industrial focus in the Basque Autonomous Region to Vitoria-Gasteiz.
Now, triggered by the tourism initiative and the subsequent 'Guggenheim Effect' Bilbao is once again well in its ascendant, this time as a service city. Big banks and other major organisations are headquartered here, in an architectural mix that reflects the great trading days as well as the most modern of constructions with a design flair to match the Guggenheim's in some cases. There's great shopping, and evening and night life in the best Spanish tradition of good wine and food and non-stop conversation.
Much of the culture and leisure relates to the river and its environs, so there are quite wonderful walks, places to ride bikes, skateboard, pause to watch the passing views of river and land-side users of the facility. Nestled in a saucer formed by a ring of local mountains, there are good views in almost every direction.
The Spanish are very family people, so pretty well every activity is family friendly, and children are brought everywhere. Music seems to be everywhere too, whether from the elderly weathered man who busks great jazz saxophone and clarinet beside the Guggenheim, or the rock group down on the quays pounding out support for a candidate in upcoming elections.
There are cafes, restaurants, bars for all tastes and pockets. Soccer fans will find their spaces aplenty, there's music too, and there are lots of wine bars and pubs, especially in the old city, where the buzz of conversation in top gear is the main attraction. The old city is a compact area with seven streets converging on the square in front of the old Cathedral de Santiago. Real narrow streets and tall old buildings, all in good repair and with good quality shops at the bottom. And the pubs, the Xukela is one worth hitting to people watch and sample the tapas and vino del mesa.
Transport is easy. There's an underground metro, which I haven't tried. An on-street tram system which is the handiest way to get to the riverside attractions if you don't want to walk. And a very comprehensive bus system. None of it expensive — the bus fare to the airport, for instance, is €1.45. And those glasses of excellent red wine, €1.80. No wonder people here seem to be in very good humour. There are several other museums and attractions, including the Maritime Museum which makes a good first point from which to wander the riverside back to the city centre.
The Tourist Information Office in the Plaza Circular is efficient and a really beautiful ambience, with lots of self-operated terminals where you can work up your own information if you don't want to bother the very helpful personnel.
Hotels range from the Carlton on Plaza Federica Moyúa (where I didn't stay, but it made a very quiet emergency studio for a radio interview) to lots of two-, three- and four-star accommodations. Again, plenty of reasonably-priced places.
Bottom line, it seems to be a city where tourism will be a strong part of its future, and where the local authorities seem to be determined that success will come from maintaining good value as well as a classic small city experience.
Now on my city favourites list. Very high up on it.
