Anyone who has been to North Africa or the Middle East will be familiar with the notion of souks, clusters of markets streets or even a covered in area, writes Brian Byrne. In Dubai they tend to be specific to commodities, and are found around the old Deira Creek from which their wares are delivered by modern motor versions of the old sailing dhows.
The particular ones here are the Perfume Souk, the Spice Souk, the Gold Souk, all of them self explanatory and all close together in the Deira neighbourhood that sprang from the original trading port. There's also a covered souk for more general food and household products. Across the Creek in the Bur Dubai aea there's a Souk complex devoted mostly to the textiles business, for both wholesale and individual customers.
It's interesting to see how this business is conducted, generally with each small shop having two or three tables and chairs, the buyer sitting down with the merchant and having samples, or even whole rolls of material brought to them for perusal and discussion. That's the civilised side. Part of the original Bur Dubai covered souk has been completely restored, and that's where the tourists are directed. And there it's very much a case of running the gauntlet.
Most of the goods along here are scarves and other textile products, and the salespeople are very much in your face trying to get your attention, and your dirhams. Calls of 'big boss' or 'beautiful lady', 'come here and see my collection' resound. But they get into personal space too, throwing a pashmina scarf over a woman's shoulders, plucking at the men's clothing, all the time trying to get you to interact. It's very uncomfortable, and I can't help thinking it's counterproductive, because you don't want to stop and look, or they'll be all over you. Of course, that's the thrill for some people, I suppose, the chase for the best bargain.
It's a similar experience in most of the other specialist souks, though once you get away from the outer lanes and streets in each, it becomes less strident. I noticed that local people and families, in their Emirati traditional dress, weren't solicited in the same way.
It's colourful, though. And noisy. Be aware, though, that while you might fancy yourself as a haggler, these guys do it for a living. They're always going to come out at the level of profit they have determined, and most likely more besides.
